Tauer Perfumes Noontide Petals - Noontide Petals immediately reminded me of two of my favorite Tauers: Une Rose Chypree and Incense Rose. All three walk that paradoxical line between juicy and powdery. There's that same bright, full citrus in the opening, but with what smells to me like some lemon thrown into the mix with the mandarin and bergamot stuff, plus a big sweet dose of vanilla. There are twinkling aldehydes and some raspy white floral notes, but it doesn't immediately announce itself as a tuberose scent, as I was expecting. And it's not as sweet as Miriam or something like a Chanel No. 22. It's more of a hazy, vintage-y floral blend, with noticeable rose but yellow in hue, and a classically Tauer woody incense base. If you like SSS Nostalgie, this will probably be right up your alley. Both Nostalgie and Noontide have some ingredient that reads as slightly urinous to my nose at times. Is it a facet of the jasmine? Or patchouli? Is there some beeswax/honey in here? Or just an effect of the aldehydes? I'm not sure, but in any case it's very subtle and just supports the old-fashioned feeling of this yummy rounded blend. I think I smell a touch of mimosa in here too, making this a lovely Tauer for spring. As it dries down, you veer into standard "Tauerade," but luckily I love Tauerade. This is one of my favorite releases from Andy in the past several years, and feels like a return to his classic style.
DSH Cordial - In Perfumes: The Guide, all perfumes are given a two-word descriptor, like "apple mimosa" or "nasty leather," before their lengthier review. My two-word descriptor of Cordial, which Dawn released around the holidays last year, would be "doughy incense." There's a gingerbread cookie dough accord hanging out alongside a resinous note that reminds me of Nag Champa, which must be the benzoin. The main effect is not, as the name implies, boozy, to my nose, but spicy and softly smoky, in the Tea for Two mold (though not as close to TFT as Spicebomb, to be sure). As it dries down it gets fruitier; I wish the fruit note were more raisin, as in Feminite du Bois, and less glaceed cherry. Not as complex or exotic as Mahjoun, another DSH gourmand, but nice.
Heeley Cuir Pleine Fleur - Where's the beef? An extremely soapy floral accord (think violet leaf and vetiver as in Grey Flannel or Green Irish Tweed, both of which are remarkably close to Irish Spring) completely overtakes whatever leather is going on in here for me. I think Luca Turin likes this because it reminds him of Grey Flannel. Not a scrubber but I didn't enjoy it at all.
Micallef Royal Vintage - Very clean-fresh-musky-herbal-citrus in the vein of Voyage d'Hermes, but with a leather note that seriously smells like the zoo. Kind of insane because if you like animalic leather, you probably don't want gin-scented soap on top, but if you want to smell like gin and soap you would surely opt to skip the monkey house. But maybe it's genius? I can't figure this house out!
Montale Red Aoud - Like a stronger, more chocolately version of Rose Anonyme – which, you may recall, I liked everything about except its staying power. The berry-like rose note is also denser, less sheer – in other words, more red, less anonymous. It's funny, I had nothing to do with the Montale line for years; a hundred ouds in hairspray cans just didn't appeal. But the first two I've tried (see also Boise Vanille) have been really lovely. I like you now, Montale!